El rompeolas ambulante de Vernazza forma un pequeño puerto raro en esta escarpada costa de la Riviera italiana. Agarro un hueco cómodo en una roca en la parte superior y estudio el arreglo que el hombre y la naturaleza han creado aquí durante los últimos mil años. Las colinas arrugadas están marcadas con líneas topográficas: un ramillete verde de cactus, vides y olivos en terrazas.
Tras una inspección más cercana, me doy cuenta de que las colinas bullen silenciosamente de actividad. Los lugareños cuidan sus viñedos y los excursionistas tienen sed del vino blanco que producen estas colinas. Es otoño y la procesión de la vendimia – el Trenino– se ocupa de traer uvas desde las terrazas más altas a la ciudad. Esta única vía férrea plateada corre perpendicular a las terrazas y sube la pendiente como la cuerda de un escalador.
Vernazza tiene dos mitades: en cada mitad, cada edificio está conectado con todos los demás edificios. Estos grupos de personas están separados por una calle principal que la gente del pueblo creó al pavimentar el arroyo que formaba el barranco sobre el cual se construyó el pueblo. Es una emoción de color pastel, con callejuelas escalonadas oscuras y túneles húmedos que serpentean por cada colina como las venas de una hoja hasta que los edificios se encuentran con los viñedos.
Debajo de mi palo rocoso un pescador limpia sus redes. La neblina fresca que sigue a cada ola que rompe me recuerda cuán fácilmente se puede conquistar este rompeolas durante las tormentas de invierno. Ristorante al Castello se encuentra muy por encima del rompeolas, al pie del castillo. Este lugar caro era mi pequeño lujo privado mientras estiraba mi dinero eligiendo paletas heladas en lugar de helado.
Vernazza a veces se siente poblada por descendientes de los piratas que saquearon esta costa. Pero Lorenzo, que dirigía el Castello, era un raro Vernazzan que no aprovechaba a los turistas cautivados por la belleza de su ciudad. Me sentó bajo una sombrilla con la mejor vista de la ciudad. Y con el amor de un cura de pueblo pequeño, colocó una galleta junto a mi vaso de dulce fresco esquiacchetra Vino y decir: «Descansa aquí. La vista es agradable.”
El cáncer se llevó rápidamente a Lorenzo un invierno. Ahora es el rey de la montaña Vernazza. Está descansando y disfrutando de la mejor vista de todas en otro hotel que los lugareños han reservado durante años: el cementerio Hilltop.
Salgo del puerto y subo las empinadas y pedregosas escaleras hasta el Castello. Mónica, la hija de Lorenzo, que ahora regenta el local junto a su marido Massimo, me da una calurosa bienvenida. Su cabello negro, iluminado por el sol, parece tener un aura. Sus ojos penetrantes realmente parecen verme. Tiene labios estilo Barbra Streisand y una nariz huesuda. En su rostro cariñoso veo a Lorenzo todavía parado allí con una buena botella de vino. esquiacchetra.
Le digo a Mónica que estaba pensando en su padre y ella sugiere que visitemos el cementerio. Paseando por callejones estrechos que huelen a gatos mojados, llegamos al callejón que sube hacia el cementerio. Después de una misa fúnebre, todo el pueblo sale de la iglesia y avanza penosamente por el mismo camino en la oscuridad. Ha sido un triste ritual aquí en Vernazza por generaciones.
Una puerta de hierro negro está abierta en la parte superior del callejón. Adentro, el cementerio huele a flores frescas. Caminos tranquilos separan las paredes de mármol de los nichos que son cinco uno encima del otro. Mónica camina por un callejón más cercano al mar y explica que los ataúdes no se clavan en el suelo, se empujan dentro de uno. Lóculo. Miro con los ojos entrecerrados los ojos hacia la pared de una alcoba, que se refleja en un blanco brillante bajo el sol de la tarde, y compruebo los nombres y las fechas tallados en el mármol. Cada rincón está conectado a una pequeña luz y viene con un jarrón incorporado. Y al lado de cada jarrón hay una ventana ovalada empotrada llena de un retrato en blanco y negro.
Mónica da la vuelta a una escalera móvil dejada para sus seres queridos con flores para los que descansan en la fila superior y llega a casa de su padre. Lóculo. Me deja el tiempo suficiente para santiguarse. Luego, Mónica mira hacia el mar y se sienta en una roca plana lo suficientemente grande para dos. Palmea la otra mitad de su percha y me invita a sentarme. Ella no lo sabe, pero es como decir, ‘Descansa aquí. La vista es agradable.”
Ignoramos los azulejos rojos, la ropa revoloteando y los turistas descansando en el rompeolas de abajo. Desde aquí puede disfrutar de lo que llamamos «la vista de Lorenzo» y el mundo es verde pacífico y azul relajante, mezclando mar y cielo. De izquierda a derecha, selecciono cada uno de los pueblos de Cinque Terre a lo largo de la costa. Todos están solos en el mundo y no parecen notar el paso del tiempo. Me pregunto qué podría mejorar la configuración. Luego suenan las campanas de la iglesia.
Este artículo fue adaptado del nuevo libro de Rick, Por el amor de Europa.
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